Only three weeks late but it's been requested by lovely Jo so I think it's about time I finished my journey.
When I left you I was in LA about to head East to Las Vegas on that legend of American roadtripping: Route 66.
We came across it by accident in the end. We had stopped for a sandwich (thank you for the sandwiches Vons, you've taught us so much!) and suddenly there it was. A boring bit of road lined by shops and petrol stations and traffic lights. It did take us almost immediately to a Walmart though so we got to check that one off the list.
Eventually we got out of the city and I found myself driving along this:
Spectacular!
It led us to our motel in Barstow. I can't say I recommend it. The motel was pretty shabby and the town was fairly disappointing but it did have some great things to see nearby. Our first stop was Peggy Sue's 50's Diner and Diner-saur park.
There were dinosaurs...need I say more? We had milkshakes in the warm evening air, dinner to the dulcet tones of Elvis, and browsed a shop full of kitch.
The next morning took us to a magical place. Anyone travelling in the area MUST go to Elmer's BottleTree Ranch. A local artist has created a forest of ...things. The stuff we throw out, broken, old, delapidated, transformed into treasure. Everywhere we looked there was something we missed before. A typewriter, a cowboy, an old phone, till, motorbike...And all around hummingbirds fluttered past our heads, sipping from the feeders strung up amongst it all.
After some moments dancing amongst it all we moved on to Calico Ghost Town. A bit of a tourist trap really. It would've been much more interesting left abandoned and spooky but every old building was selling a different variety of souvenir. It does seem incredible that people lived there once at the heart of the wild west gold rush. It seems both an incredibly exciting time and a horribly difficult one. The lack of water there is terrifying. I was thirsty just thinking about it...but then, we are delicate British flowers, not made for the desert.
Tired by the heat and the American dream we drove south to our next home in Joshua Tree National Park. We arrived in the evening so it was cool enough for a little walk (praying we didn't meet a tarantula) before firing up the trusty Jet Boil for stew and a splash of whiskey to wash it down.
We had some interesting neighbours for dinnertime. The scouts we having some kind of family evening so we were treated to some rather questionable speeches by the significant presence of their leader. Our favourite was him reading out a list of why girls are better than boys (by some women).
"Girls smell better. Girls are polite. Girls make an effort with their hair." And other similar gems. All bad enough. I mean, I know some very nice smelling men, and Kirsty and I weren't exactly the most glamorous of creatures at this stage. He then went on to counter all these arguments with equally sexist drivel. Boys are better than girls because "Boys don't waste time at the mall. God made Adam first. Boys aren't afraid of adventures."
I hope the mothers who were there set the record straight once they'd gone home. I'm not entirely sure teachers should influence their charges with such rubbish. I was quite angry.
But then they left and the milky way made its now familiar presence known.
In the early morning we went for a very short hike in the desert. First of all, it is incredibly beautiful. There is such a variety of strange cacti filling the arid earth. Life is really very tenacious. We are not. We were back at camp by ten and felt quite weak. We had had to stop every few minutes to drink and rest. We had planned to spend the day there and camp another night but we couldn't bear it! So we did the only sensible thing and got into the car to bask in the cooling influence of the air conditioning. We would drive to Amboy, a town we picked out on the map (we rejected Palm Springs as it was in the wrong direction. Silly decision!) mainly based on the fact there was a crater nearby.
Amboy has a motel and diner (without a kitchen) and nothing else. It's famous for it's signpost.
We also saw the crater surrounded by lava fields from when it was an active volcano. You can walk up to the rim but the heat was like a hammer. As soon as we left the car I didn't know what to do with myself exactly. There is hot and then there is the desert. I've never felt physically sick from the weather before and it is not pleasant. Who'd've thought that I wasn't perfectly adapted to such an environment? I'm as shocked as you are.
We had toyed with the idea of camping in Mojave Desert but a flood (what?!) had closed the road so instead we went to a town called Baker (how appropriate), home of one motel and the world's largest thermometer which read 109F (about 42C in real money). It was evening. We took a room and hid for the rest of the day and most of the morning before driving the last stretch to Las Vegas. It was 46C. Did I mention it was very very very hot?
Don't get me wrong, I had a great time there but I'm not sure Vegas is for me. An evening of people watching, gawping at The Strip, the water show, and exploring the hotels was really enough. Especially as we were all zen from weeks surrounded by the glories of nature, suddenly everything was gaudy and vulgar and greedy. It glittered and was fascinating but dirty in a way that I had not felt even after 5 days without a shower in the wild.
The casinos were intimidating. Money was everywhere. The air smelled like stale cigarettes covered by furniture polish. I'm not sure I'll go back in a hurry. One day we tried to find a pool to relax beside and the only ones we were allowed in had been turned into pool parties. We went to the car wash instead which was great. Not kidding. I love a car wash.
Our last day we went to see the Hoover Dam which was an amazing piece of engineering. How do people go about building this stuff. It's enormous. In the evening we dressed up, had some drinks and watched a Cirque du Soleil. Not used to drinking we were both much happier about Vegas :) especially when we popped into a New York, New York burger place on the way home. We finished the trip as we started it.
I missed the penultimate day on purpose to end on the highest note. The Grand Canyon. What an utterly extraordinary place. It was a 5 hour drive so we set off just after 4am and arrived to a balmy, green and very pretty national park late morning. We'd watched the sunrise as we drove in Arizona.
Yes, it's very touristy but the further you walk from the Visitor Centre the more you have the place to yourself to drink in how huge it is in peace/ take some jumping shots.
It really is a beautiful place. You just don't get bored of it no matter how much you look. It's not just the vast crater, or the bright bands of rock. It's the hawks cycling lazily below you! It's the flower speckled edges softening the exposed rock. It's the wonder that that tiny far away river made this, and it's still going.
We stayed to watch the beautiful sunset, filling the canyon with shadows and melting over the horizon before turning and seeing the moon had risen behind us, full and fat and glowing. It was Supermoon evening. A pretty special day all round.
We drove home through the night, arriving exhausted but still full of the magic of the day.
And less than two days later we were saying goodbye to USA. A final meal at John Mull's Meats (go there if you get the chance. It's the most glorious brisket in the world. Fact.) and we were at the airport saying goodbye to Greta, our trusty steed, and preparing for Pitch Perfect 2: film choice number 1.
And now here I am, nearly a month later and it's all a distant memory. Better start planning the next holiday then. This one will take some topping.