To the sun!

Today, like the glamorous being I am, I'm writing to you from one of the beaches at Malibu. Kirsty is working on her tan and I am under a stripy umbrella, trying to find things to do to occupy myself. Luckily I was well prepared with things to write, a book and I braved the burny sun to swim in the warm ocean after we spotted dolphins swimming very close to shore. Incredible. They didn't come back to swim with us unfortunately. Alas! 
All in all it's been a very successful beach trip for someone who doesn't do well on the beach. Hurrah! :) not least because it is much cooler today than yesterday. Only a chilly 30•C  instead of nearly 10• hotter. Phew!
This is a huge change from where I last left you. The last spot on our trekking route was a place called Florence Lake. First of all is was quite tricky to get to. The last road up to the lake was single track but two way traffic (although very little of it thank god!), blind bends, vertical drops and random jagged rocks from nowhere. And all in the dark. It took us over an hour to go less than 20 miles. It was quite terrifying. 

In the morning it was raining. Not only was it raining but there was a forest fire nearby so the air was black with smoke as well. We braved a hike though, following the lake through the John Muir Wilderness: The man who inspired our trip.
Unfortunately the fairies must've been out that day because after we stopped for lunch the paths disappeared. Truly. We went straight on and it petered out to nothing. We went back where we thought we'd come from and hit an uncross able creek in our way. The path we'd arrived in was just not there anymore and the others came to abrupt ends. It turned out we were lost with only a couple if cheese strings for sustenance. 
But fear not reader! We are nothing if not made for survival in such extreme circumstances. Using a map and compass (check us out!) we worked out where we were, found high ground then followed the creek back up to Florence Lake until we found the path again. 
It was a bit creepy though. We came across a place where we suspect hunters prepare their catches. It wasn't the happiest place. 

Frustrated with the bad weather (we came to California in the middle of a four year draught and got rained on. Typical!) and the badly maintained routes/tricksy fairies, we left the next day for Big Sur and Monterey Bay on the Pacific Coast Highway. It was completely the right decision because we rejoined the sun and had a beautiful few days in a stunning bit of the world. 

We were driving on the best road...all zigzags and breathtaking views, there were huge birds, deer, redwoods and showers at our campground. The last is probably the most exciting. We had an afternoon on a beach, dinner in a diner from 'Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,' and did some shopping. We went to the world famous Monterey Bay Aquarium and saw into the beautiful alien world of under the sea. And there were sea otters. They are soooooooo cute! And did you know there is such a job as a penguinologist? Why am I not one of them? Then I could live in Monterey. Highlight! 

There was one scary moment when I was driving back to camp in the dark. My first driving at night experience and I did not like it at all. I especially didn't like it when a deer stepped out in front of me and I nearly hit it. And then 10 minutes later another one did the same. Both Kirsty and I were nervous wrecks by the time we got home. 
But moving on, we soon found ourselves on the way to LA and a wonderful friend, Monique, who we are staying with. She's the nicest and an excellent tour guide so we've had an awesome time. LA is so big, and with such different parts. You only have to walk from shiny Santa Monica where people are working out on Muscle Beach and walking tiny dogs, towards the shabbier Venice Beach where homeless men play the piano and men try to sell you incense as you pass them to see it. And then there's the big fancy houses near the hills, Rodeo Drive and Beverley Hills to show you another side again. 

Yesterday was my birthday and this really wasn't a bad way to spend it. We saw the famous sign and the sprawling city from Griffith observatory, ate tacos for breakfast and ice cream for lunch, went to an Emmys party where we drank margaritas and played ping-pong and then went to....wait for it...the cupcake ATM. Yes, you hear me correctly. It is a thing. A beautiful and delicious thing. We need one of those in London. 

What better way to celebrate arriving in one's late twenties? 
We have just a week left and tomorrow we depart for the last leg. But don't think about the end...I'm going for lunch. We have another blog left so until then...

Trekking Part 2

Another motel, another bit of wifi, another blog. Hurrah! Trekking part two is a highlight I think. 
So I left you on my way to Yosemite National Park. I drove. I DROVE ALL THE WAY THERE! Look at me:

For some of my first legal driving it was pretty sweet. Long, straight roads, amazing views. Sure I was in the wrong (I mean other) side of the road but I only drove onto the verge once at a reasonably slow speed. And I negotiated rocks and trees and things in the campsite. I wanted Kirsty to take over there but she wouldn't. I think she thought It would be good for me...practice those manoeuvres, you know. 
We did a lot of driving in Yosemite. It's so big, and so much to see that it was the best way. At Glacier Point we got an amazing view of Half Dome and Clouds Rest etc as well as the "controlled fire" that was burning above the valley. There were lots of aeroplanes chucking water (very precisely) on the blaze. Two of them passed by at eye level actually. We were as high as planes :) 

The next day took us even higher on a trek to Clouds Rest. It's an incredible walk and there may have been cartwheels and jumping photos at the top. Classic.

And then it was time for the biggest trek of them all. Five days in the Ansel Adams Wilderness, bear canisters and all. It didn't start so well...
The trouble was...well it was lots of things. 
1. We were late. We didn't start walking until 2.20 and we had ten miles to walk before reaching our planned stop at Thousand Islands Lake (the pinnacle of our imaginations).
2. The weight. The bear canisters do add a significant chunk. Inside them we had to fit five days of food, toiletries and anything else smelly- to stop the bears getting in. This made us slow and weak, like a pair of geriatrics. 
3. The dark, which started early in the woods. And the rustling in the bushes by unknown animals which we imagined as bears of course, and sang "she'll be coming round the mountain" to scare them away. We aren't singers. There were definitely bears in the area- we saw a couple of large paws prints on the dusty path. Scaaaaaary. Until that point we were both very grumpy and hated each other a little bit. We didn't speak at all. So at least the bears bonded us. 
So we stopped a little early, as soon as we found a good spot. A little whiskey to warm us up (and calm us down) and bed. I dreamt of bears. 
The next day was much better, thank goodness. Not only did we make it to the stunningly beautiful Thousand Island Lake but a man (in response to me saying we were from London) said "Well Hot Diggity!!" What more can I say to convince you of the charms of the wilderness? 
We camped at another glorious lake, Garnet, and watched the sunset from the rocks, and saw an eagle. We bought binoculars this time to properly see all the big birds. Jeez, life is hard. 

And then in the morning it looked like this...a perfect mirror. 

And we had the opportunity to play :)

It was the next day at Rosalie Lake we made a friend called Dave. We made a bonfire, talked trekking and careers and 'Naked and Afraid.' He was very impressed with our trip. "If you girls are capable of this, then shame on you if you don't make wonderful things happen in your life." No pressure there, but I like the sentiment. We do do a great holiday. Why not more? 

And then finally two days hiking in one. We were in pain, filthy, sweaty. There was smoke in the air and landscape like a giant had rampage past unrooting huge trees. But the thought of a shower, a sandwich and a cup of whiskey spurred us on. So here we are. 

We even have carrot cake. 

Trekking Part 1

I am writing to you from a 24 hour laundromat. A laundomat opposite the motel we just checked into. We are so living the American dream right now. 

This unexpected bit of connection allows me to update you on life on the road part one. Right now we are tired, hungry, our bodies hurt and we've only been away from civilisation for a week (not quite). 

So what have we been up to I hear you cry? 

Well first we were in Point Reyes for three days. It's just north of San Francisco, right by the ocean, and just a couple of miles trek from where we left the car. That meant it was a bit of a practice-run. We had all our stuff for the couple of miles in and out, and took a day bag for the rest of the time. The day bag was still heavy at the time. We were so innocent then. 

So good things about Point Reyes are: the wild and empty beach, the lack of bears, all the other animals and birds that were EVERYWHERE! Lizards, deer, gofers, kites, and more whales :) we were happy nature spotters.

Bad things about it: teenage boys. School trip season meant they were everywhere. It was pretty tricky to wash, let me tell you. There were no showers so a discreet bowl wash was all we could manage. 

Before we knew it, it was time to move on so off we drove to the Carson Pass Ranger Station to get our permits for our next trek: the Mukelumne Wilderness.

Except we didn't get there that day. Who knew we'd end up caught in traffic on Labor Day Weekend. Not us apparently although I expect any Americans reading this to be rolling their eyes at our naivity. 

So we needed somewhere to sleep and we stopped long enough in Folsom (that of the Johnny Cash song) to see only a shopping centre and get wifi enough to google a campsite.

We found a beauty. Up a Top Gear worthy mountainside road, to a beautiful lakeside spot. 

Only, because of Labor Day (again!) it was completely reserved for a wedding no less. 

It had taken us an hour to get to just from Folsom. We had nowhere else to go so resolved to wait for the staff to leave and sleep in the car.

But we didn't have to sleep in the car after all. We went to the wedding party (the wedding was the following day) and asked their advice in somewhere nearby to sleep. Hint hint. And being the happy and generous gang they were, we were allowed a spot at the back if the site. I felt like Mary and Joseph asking for room at the inn. I think that wedding got some good karma for their kindness. 

That night we saw the Milky Way. 

Leaving the wedding early in the morning to not get in their way we headed for our original destination. The Internet had given us an address in Placerville but when we arrived it was just a house. Hmmm....

3 hours later and we had almost driven in a large circle hunting this place down (damn it Internet...you're supposed to know everything), when we chanced upon a ranger station that issued us permits, gave us directions and assured us we didn't need bear canisters as bears where almost never a problem there. Almost? Is that good enough? We were both nervous every time we fell asleep there in case the smells of avocados and jerky proved too much for a brave bear to resist. 

As you can see we are both still alive and have all our limbs. Hurrah! 

Mukolmne was just stunning. 

The first day we trekked past four lakes, down a mountain side and into the woods by the creek where we set up camp. 

The second day the creek took us through the pine woods and eventually to a sunny spot for a dunk in the creek to wash our hair. We stayed there for a while jumping from rock to rock, enjoying being clean and alone in the huge wilderness. We were so free that day. 

We even had a wilderness poo. The most scenic of our lives. 

Not together. 

That evening we put to use the skills we learnt at Survival School and successfully built and maintained a campfire that lasted hours and warmed our chilly bones. 

Today we had to make it back to the car and it was our hardest day yet. All uphill and overgrown so it was miles and miles of slog. Until you looked up or behind and where once again astonished by the view. 

The worst bit was when the path was ruined by landslide and we couldn't see which way to go. We scrambled precariously up the loose rocks until a sheer cliff face beat us back. We found to right path on the way back from our near death experience and continued...and continued...and continued. I have no photos of the day as I was too exhausted to get my phone out of my bag. 

It took us 7 hours a to walk as many miles but we had some wildlife highlights in a hawk and a yellow-bellied marmot. 

Some advice for your future road trips: 

Never celebrate reaching the top of a mountain until you are definitely on the way down the other side. It only leads to disappointment. 

Always check the map as well relying on TomTom. The place we were looking for was there all along. 

Don't be afraid to ask to crash a wedding. They are in a good mood so it's the perfect time to ask a favour.

Put sun cream on your ears. 

More to come...Yosemite tomorrow. 

Tourist Days in San Francisco

Today we are in Sausalito. We arrived here by accident after walking the Golden Gate Bridge in an attempt to find a bit of wilderness. The was a freeway between us and the object of our desire and so here we are, eating frozen yogurt instead. 

But don't be sad for us. You'll get your wild blog in not too long. Tomorrow we will stock up with noodles, couscous and dried vegetables, practice putting up our tent, ready to head out to the middle of nowhere. Or more specifically: Point Reyes, Mokelumne Wilderness, Yosemite, Thousand Island Lake, Jackass Meadows and Monterey Bay before we're onto LA and civilisation once again.
So although you may not hear from me for a while, don't worry, the bears probably haven't got me because I have a bell and a whistle. Infallible. 

I'll check in again when I have wi-fi once more. Nature doesn't supply it unfortunately but calm down....we'll be with you again soon. 
Before becoming simpler creatures with only our thoughts to occupy us we have spent this week in San Francisco as tourists as it is the perfect city to do so. The famous Pier 39 feels a bit like a set from a theme park, full of sea themed restaurants, Sea Lion merchandise and smiley American customer service. There is a lot to do and to take photos of. Here are some for your viewing pleasure:

And in our tourist-frenzy two themes have emerged: boats and animals. 
The boats were a surprise. We are in America to trek and this has become quite a watery experience so far. In New York we went on the Staten Island ferry and a Central Park rowing boat. Here we have done a loop around the bay, taken a ferry to Alcatraz and back, and been on a whale watching expedition. 5 boats in a week. 

The last, as you can see, combined with the animal theme to make a perfect day out. We saw about 7 humpback whales (one baby!...tiny giant), a jumping thresher shark, seals, porpoises, pelicans and a whole menagerie of other birds. And then when we were walking to the tube later we saw a really fat insect that turned out to be a hummingbird. There are kites and butterflies, dragonflies and beautiful blue jays. And this badass:

And having shown you that picture that I can't possibly top I'll say goodbye for now. Catch you in a couple of weeks and cheers! 

(Yes those are pints of Margarita...what can I say? Everything's bigger here.)